Selecting the Tiles

Most ceiling tiles are made of fiberboard. Standard tiles measure 12" by 12", although tiles are also made in 12" by 24" and other sizes. Acoustical tiles are made from the same type of fiber with an additional manufacturing process to help absorb sound in a room. A well designed acoustical tile absorbs up to 70 percent of excess noise.

Ask the supplier to help estimate the materials you need for installation. Most manufacturers provide charts to determine the number of tiles, the amount of furring, and the gallons of adhesive needed (if adhesive is used) based on the room size. Tiles are typically packed as follows: 12" by 12" ceiling tiles in cartons of 40, 12" by 24" are packed 20 to a carton.

Ceiling Tile Installation Methods

The most common methods of ceiling tile application are adhesives, stapled or nailed to wood furring strips, or a metal grid suspended from the overhead floor joists. For ceilings made of plaster, sheetrock, or other materials that provides a smooth, continuous backing, use adhesives to apply the ceiling tiles. If the ceiling has cracked plaster or other defects, apply furring strips and nail or staple the tiles to the furring strips.

Basic Rules

• All cut tiles should be used for the edges of the room where the ceiling meets the walls.

• Cut tiles at opposite ends of the room should be the same size.

• If at all possible, cut tiles should not be less than half a tile wide.

Determine the Size of Border Tiles

Measure the distance from wall to wall on the longer side of the room. If the length measures exact feet, you will not need to cut border tiles for that direction. If the distance does not come out in exact feet, add 12 to the number of inches remaining and divide by two. This gives you the width of your border tiles. For example, if the room is 10′ 6" long, add 12 to 6 (18) and divide 18 by 2. The result of 9" is the width of the border tiles for each end of the run. Do the same thing for the shorter side of the room. Confused? Here is the result of the calculations:

• 10′ 6" = 126 total inches of the run (10′ x 12" to the foot = 120") + 6" = 126"

• 6" + 12" = 18" (to make sure each end tile is at least 1/2 tile wide)

• 18" / 2 = 9"

• 9" on start of run + 9" on end of run = 18", so 126" (total length of the run) - 18" = 108"

• 108" / 12" (size of standard ceiling tile) = 9 tiles in middle of the run

• 9 tiles x 12" = 108" + 9" start of run + 9" end of run = 126"

• 126" / 12" = 10′ 6"

Installing Tiles with Adhesive

Use adhesive for applying tiles only if the ceiling is flat and even, with no high or low spots. A wavy surface will be magnified by the application of ceiling tiles. If you can’t get the ceiling in acceptable condition, use the furring strip method.

Surface preparation is important when using adhesives. Paint should be checked carefully to be sure it has a good bond and is compatible with the adhesive to be used. You don’t want to spend a lot of time installing tiles only to have them start falling down due to an adverse reaction between paint and adhesive.

Use the above formula to calculate width of borders on each end of the runs. Snap a chalk line along each side of the room that equals the width of the border tile from the wall. Use these lines to align the first row of border tiles along both the short and long sides of the room.

Cut your first border tile to size. This tile fits into the corner, so you must take into consideration the dimensions of border tiles on both the short and long sides of the room. For example, if your border tiles on the long side of the room are to be 10" and on the short side of the room only 9", the corner tile should be cut to measure 10" by 9". This allows all other border tiles in the room to line up properly with your full sized tiles.

Cut border tiles on a flat surface with the finished side up. Use a very sharp knife or utility knife and a clean straightedge. Watch your hands and fingers! Don’t cut directly towards your body because you can injure yourself if the knife slips.

Place the adhesive in each corner of the tile about an inch from the edge and in the middle of the tile. Place the border tile in position in the corner and make sure the wide stapling edge lines up with the chalk marks on both sides. The flange must be exposed so the tongue of the next tile can slide into the tile you’ve just placed.

It may be necessary to use a staple in each flange to hold the tile in position while the adhesive dries. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations. Place several border tiles in position along each edge, then fill in the ceiling with full-sized tiles. Once you’ve installed all the full-sized tiles, you must measure and fit each border tile carefully on the opposite end of the run. Install a border molding to complete the run.

Installing Tiles Using Furring Strips

For a ceiling with exposed joists or surface defects too difficult to correct, nail furring strips to the ceiling before applying the tiles. These can be purchased from building supply centers and/or the same place where you buy your ceiling tiles. If the ceiling has joists hidden by an existing ceiling, these joists must be located and marked before the furring strips are applied. You can locate joists by driving a nail into the ceiling or by using a stud finder.

Joists are usually installed on 16" or 24" centers. After you locate the first one, measure across 16" and try again. If you miss at 16", try 24". Locate and mark all joists with a chalk line so you can attach the furring strips. Nail the strips across the joists at right angles to the joists.

Attach the first furring strip to the ceiling immediately against the wall that runs at right angles to the ceiling joists. Position the second furring strip so that the distance between the center

If your grout is still stained, the next thing to try would be commercial tile and grout cleaners. These are available where home cleaning products are sold. Start with a mild cleaner instead of jumping right to a harsh one. To get the best result from a commercial cleaner, spray it on and let it sit for a few minutes before scrubbing. Follow the directions on the label to clean effectively and prevent discoloration.

Tips for Grout Cleaning

• Clean the grout first with water and allow to dry. This will remove any loose surface debris and small stains that have not set.

• Never use bleach on colored grout because the color will be damaged.

• Use a stiff nylon brush for scrubbing. Avoid using metal bristles, as they will damage the grout.

• Make sure the room you're working in is well ventilated and protect your hands and eyes.

• Test your grout cleaner on a small, inconspicuous area first to make sure it won't damage the grout.

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Selecting the Tiles

Most ceiling tiles are made of fiberboard. Standard tiles measure 12" by 12", although tiles are also made in 12" by 24" and other sizes. Acoustical tiles are made from the same type of fiber with an additional manufacturing process to help absorb sound in a room. A well designed acoustical tile absorbs up to 70 percent of excess noise.

Ask the supplier to help estimate the materials you need for installation. Most manufacturers provide charts to determine the number of tiles, the amount of furring, and the gallons of adhesive needed (if adhesive is used) based on the room size. Tiles are typically packed as follows: 12" by 12" ceiling tiles in cartons of 40, 12" by 24" are packed 20 to a carton.

Ceiling Tile Installation Methods

The most common methods of ceiling tile application are adhesives, stapled or nailed to wood furring strips, or a metal grid suspended from the overhead floor joists. For ceilings made of plaster, sheetrock, or other materials that provides a smooth, continuous backing, use adhesives to apply the ceiling tiles. If the ceiling has cracked plaster or other defects, apply furring strips and nail or staple the tiles to the furring strips.

Basic Rules

• All cut tiles should be used for the edges of the room where the ceiling meets the walls.

• Cut tiles at opposite ends of the room should be the same size.

• If at all possible, cut tiles should not be less than half a tile wide.

Determine the Size of Border Tiles

Measure the distance from wall to wall on the longer side of the room. If the length measures exact feet, you will not need to cut border tiles for that direction. If the distance does not come out in exact feet, add 12 to the number of inches remaining and divide by two. This gives you the width of your border tiles. For example, if the room is 10′ 6" long, add 12 to 6 (18) and divide 18 by 2. The result of 9" is the width of the border tiles for each end of the run. Do the same thing for the shorter side of the room. Confused? Here is the result of the calculations:

• 10′ 6" = 126 total inches of the run (10′ x 12" to the foot = 120") + 6" = 126"

• 6" + 12" = 18" (to make sure each end tile is at least 1/2 tile wide)

• 18" / 2 = 9"

• 9" on start of run + 9" on end of run = 18", so 126" (total length of the run) - 18" = 108"

• 108" / 12" (size of standard ceiling tile) = 9 tiles in middle of the run

• 9 tiles x 12" = 108" + 9" start of run + 9" end of run = 126"

• 126" / 12" = 10′ 6"

Installing Tiles with Adhesive

Use adhesive for applying tiles only if the ceiling is flat and even, with no high or low spots. A wavy surface will be magnified by the application of ceiling tiles. If you can’t get the ceiling in acceptable condition, use the furring strip method.

Surface preparation is important when using adhesives. Paint should be checked carefully to be sure it has a good bond and is compatible with the adhesive to be used. You don’t want to spend a lot of time installing tiles only to have them start falling down due to an adverse reaction between paint and adhesive.

Use the above formula to calculate width of borders on each end of the runs. Snap a chalk line along each side of the room that equals the width of the border tile from the wall. Use these lines to align the first row of border tiles along both the short and long sides of the room.

Cut your first border tile to size. This tile fits into the corner, so you must take into consideration the dimensions of border tiles on both the short and long sides of the room. For example, if your border tiles on the long side of the room are to be 10" and on the short side of the room only 9", the corner tile should be cut to measure 10" by 9". This allows all other border tiles in the room to line up properly with your full sized tiles.

Cut border tiles on a flat surface with the finished side up. Use a very sharp knife or utility knife and a clean straightedge. Watch your hands and fingers! Don’t cut directly towards your body because you can injure yourself if the knife slips.

Place the adhesive in each corner of the tile about an inch from the edge and in the middle of the tile. Place the border tile in position in the corner and make sure the wide stapling edge lines up with the chalk marks on both sides. The flange must be exposed so the tongue of the next tile can slide into the tile you’ve just placed.

It may be necessary to use a staple in each flange to hold the tile in position while the adhesive dries. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations. Place several border tiles in position along each edge, then fill in the ceiling with full-sized tiles. Once you’ve installed all the full-sized tiles, you must measure and fit each border tile carefully on the opposite end of the run. Install a border molding to complete the run.

Installing Tiles Using Furring Strips

For a ceiling with exposed joists or surface defects too difficult to correct, nail furring strips to the ceiling before applying the tiles. These can be purchased from building supply centers and/or the same place where you buy your ceiling tiles. If the ceiling has joists hidden by an existing ceiling, these joists must be located and marked before the furring strips are applied. You can locate joists by driving a nail into the ceiling or by using a stud finder.

Joists are usually installed on 16" or 24" centers. After you locate the first one, measure across 16" and try again. If you miss at 16", try 24". Locate and mark all joists with a chalk line so you can attach the furring strips. Nail the strips across the joists at right angles to the joists.

Attach the first furring strip to the ceiling immediately against the wall that runs at right angles to the ceiling joists. Position the second furring strip so that the distance between the center

Don't count on anybody to do their job right. Just because an architect has a nice office and a good reputation doesn't mean the drawings will be done properly. The contractor that comes highly recommended might end up ripping you off with shoddy work. You absolutely must stay on top of the entire home building project to prevent losing money or getting a house that you hate. It's amazing how many contractors can't even read a simple set of blueprints. And don't let them talk you into changing something unless you really want the change. In some cases, the contractor is simply trying to swap cheaper materials to increase the profit margin.

Get a firm estimate, put everything in a contract, and hold everybody to it. Don't allow excessive monetary draws. While it's customary to have an initial draw, make sure it's for actual building expenses and not some kind of "fee" to get work started. Every dime should go towards actually building the house. While material costs vary, and there is usually a clause in the contract that allows for this, don't fall for the "I'm not making any money on this project" scam three quarters of the way through. Unless you have made changes to the original plan that increase the cost, or supplies go up more than anticipated, don't pay any more than stated in the contract. Pay a dollar for a dollar, nothing more, nothing less. If you have been keeping the draws under control you can fire the contractor if necessary and find someone else. Remember that it's your house, your money, and you are the boss.

Make sure the last draw is large enough to be painful for the contractor if withheld. And don't pay it out until every last detail of the project has been completed to your total satisfaction. If you pay the last draw before your home is finished, you will probably never see the contractor again. He will move on to the next project and ignore your phone calls.

Plan everything about your home building project in excruciating detail up front. Leave nothing out. Go over the plans many times before even starting your project. Have a trusted friend help with this. Two sets of eyes always see better. Contractors love a home builder who isn't sure what he wants, and decides to fill in the details as the house is being built. Why? Because once the contractor has the job, he can charge you anything for changes that weren't in the contract. If you decide to make a change after work commences, go over it with the contractor and get a firm price quote. Then put it in writing before work on the change begins.

Your roof must be inspected periodically to ensure minor problems are corrected before real damage sets in. If the pitch of your roof is low, and you are comfortable (and confident) walking around on it, you can perform your own inspection and make small repairs yourself. Otherwise, hire someone to do this for you. Be careful - a fall, even from a single story house, can be fatal.

Here are some reasons why roofs fail:

Inadequate Maintenance - Ignoring small problems is the single greatest reason for premature failure of roofing systems. Catching small damage early and making repairs is vital to longevity. Waiting until water is dripping inside the house is a great way to unnecessarily spend a lot of money. By the time you notice a leak, the damage has most likely spread well beyond the original problem area.

Weathering - All roofing materials deteriorate from exposure to weather. As stated earlier, the elements take a toll on your roof. Wind is the greatest enemy. Roofs are not generally designed to withstand hurricanes and tornados. But roofs may also be damaged by winds that gust up to 75 miles per hour. The air current can lift shingles up and break off the outer tab. This exposes the the top of the underlying shingle, and makes the roof thinner at that point.

Flashing Problems - Flashing provides a watertight junction between roofing materials and other parts of the structure, or between roof sections. They are the most vulnerable part of any roof. Proper maintenance is critical. A lot of early roof problems are really due to a failure of the flashing system. Many flashing problems can be eliminated by examination and good quality repair procedures.

Improper Slope - This one amazes me. A new home is built in an area that experiences heavy snowfall, and a low-pitch roof is installed. The snow piles up, partially melts, and then freezes again at night. Now there’s a layer of heavy ice on the roof. Lather, rinse, repeat. The load becomes too heavy and the roof support structure sags or collapses entirely. While some of the responsibility for this mess can be traced to the homeowner for insisting on a certain design, the builder is supposed to know better.

As the manager, your biggest responsibility is hiring the subcontractors who will do the work. Do you know someone that recently had work performed on their house? Who did they use? Was it done on time and within budget? Would they use them again.

Drive around neighborhoods you like and find out who's building the houses. If you have dealt with subcontractors in the past (and you trust their opinion), get recommendations from them. If your carpenter recommends an electrician he works with frequently, that's a solid lead.

Once you get names, you want to learn all you can. Get a list of references and talk to them. Examine past work in person. Arrange to meet them on a current job site. When you find subcontractors you like, start writing down the work quotes. And remember that the low bidder doesn't necessarily do the best work.

Do you want subcontractors to buy the supplies or do you want to do it yourself? Materials are going to cost a pro less money because they have a relationship with suppliers and can get discounts that will not be available to you. They will also not be able to blame you if a supplier delivers poor quality items such as warped limber. Remember that subcontractors will most likely want money up-front if they are going to buy the materials themselves.

As for financing, you need to choose between getting one loan for construction and another for your mortgage, or one loan that would cover both phases. There are advantages and disadvantages to each type. Construction loans are by nature more elastic. Your chances of staying on-budget are not very good.

Level Tub or Shower Pan - If the tub is level to within 1/8″, measure and mark your horizontal line from the high point of the tub. The 1/8″ difference (if there is a difference) can be hidden with grout. Measure up from the lip of the tub, the width of a tile plus 1/8″. Make a line using a level and a straight edge, along the back wall and the two end walls.

Out of Level Tub or Shower Pan - If the tub is not level to 1/8″, mark your horizontal line from the low point. Determine a level line just like for a level tub and run a batten along the bottom of the line. It is usually best to nail a straight wooden batten so that the top of the batten is set to the horizontal line. This provides a level surface for the tile. After all the tile is laid, remove the batten and install the bottom row. You will have to cut the bottom row of tiles to fit along the uneven top edge of the tub or pan.

Vertical Working Lines

Setup the tiles so each edge (border) tile is the same width on each end, and more than half a tile wide. To do this, first locate the mid-point on the back wall and mark it on the horizontal line. Then place a row of loose tiles along the back of the tub, making sure that a joint matches up with the center mark. The distance left at each end gives you the dimension of your border tiles. If the end tiles turn out to be larger than half a tile, make the vertical center line all the way up the wall using a level and straight edge.

If the end tiles are less than half the width of a tile, move the center line exactly one half the width of a tile to the left or right. By making this adjustment you’ll avoid having very narrow tiles on the ends.

The vertical for the side walls are usually done after the back wall has been tiled. Just position the vertical working lines to minimize or eliminate the number of tiles to be cut and locate any cut tiles in the corner.

Determine where you are going to put the soap dish or other accessories, and mark the locations. These will be installed last. If your soap dish fits into the wall, cut the hole before you spread adhesive, and position it to minimize or even eliminate the need to cut any tiles that will go around it.

Apply Adhesive

Make sure the adhesive is waterproof. Don’t make the mistake of using non-waterproof adhesive or your tiles will loosen and fall off after repeated exposure to moisture. Before you apply the adhesive, carefully read the manufacturer’s instructions for drying time so you don’t spread any more than you can work with before it sets.

Brick homes are especially prone to having jambs that cannot be removed. For some reason, there are builders that will install the doors, then apply brick right over the outer part of the door frame. In this case, removal would require the jambs be broken apart in small sections for removal, and the new frame would have to be modified in order to fit.

Hanging a door can be a frustrating experience. The problem is usually due to not keeping the new frame square and plumb. Sometimes, it can be quite difficult to get a good fit due to the opening being out of alignment. Houses settle with time and door openings can move around a lot.

Removing an Existing Door

1. Wear gloves and goggles. You’ll be cutting nails and don’t want to get particles in your eyes.

2. Remove the door by unscrewing the hinges from the jamb.

3. Remove the inner door trim all the way around. Use a flat pry bar or thick metal putty knife.

4. Cut through the nails that hold the door to the framing. Use a reciprocating saw or hacksaw.

5. Pry or cut the threshold plate to remove. Not all doors will have one, especially interior units.

6. Push the door frame outward to remove. It’s easier if you have a helper for this.

Installing the New Door

1. Slide the new pre-hung door in place. Again, a helper makes this easier. Make sure it is positioned correctly and there are no gaps around the outer part of the frame.

2. Place wooden shims between the jambs and framing and tack them in place. Be sure to shim behind hinge and strike plate areas for secure fastening, especially for exterior or locking doors. Adjust shims as necessary to keep the door square and plumb. This is a must! If the jambs are out of alignment, the door will not close and seal properly.

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The list of synthetic fibers can be confusing because manufacturers often call them by proprietary names. Still, all synthetics fall into four generic categories: nylon, olefin, acrylic, and polyester.

Nylon - The majority of carpet fibers are made of nylon. Nylon fibers are resilient, survive the weight of furniture, and hold up well in heavily trafficked areas. Nylon is available in a vast array of colors, and solution-dyed types are colorfast. Nylon carpets can be found in a wide variety of wear ratings and price ranges. This is generally the best choice of carpet fiber for the home.

Olefin - Also known as polypropylene, olefin is another popular choice for carpet. It is easy to clean, strong, and resists stains and wear. Olefin is used mostly in Berbers and commercial carpets. Color is added before the material is turned into fiber, making it colorfast. Olefin carpet is comparable in price to nylon.

Acrylic - These fibers are blended with other types such as wool because they approximate the look and feel of natural wool but are less expensive. Acrylic fibers are resistant to moisture, mildew, and fading.

Polyester - Polyester fibers are known for their soft, cushiony feel. They have plenty of body, resist wear, and offer strong color retention. But polyester is not as durable as nylon and olefin. If you have animals in your home, go with nylon instead of polyester. Many polyester carpets are made from recycled PET (polyester) from plastic soda bottles and containers. They are cheaper than the other fiber types.

A carpet's pile can be cut, looped, or both cut and looped. Cut-pile carpets have loops trimmed off so that yarn ends poke upward, creating a luxurious look and feel. This type of carpet is very popular.

Loop pile carpet has complete yarn loops that stand upright. Loops tend to wear better than cut-pile carpets because the yarn tips are not exposed. For a smooth surface, often preferred in commercial installations, you can get a low-level loop. For striking patterns or a sculptured look, you can buy a multi-level loop. High-level loops, such as Berbers, create a nubby texture. In fact, most loop piles are now called Berbers.

New Cedar Siding

New cedar siding should be protected from the weather at all times. Don’t leave the siding exposed to the elements - get the finish on as soon as possible. It is usually not necessary to perform extensive surface preparation as long as the siding has not weathered for more than two weeks and is clean and dry. Any contamination, such as dirt, oil, and other foreign substances, must be removed.

For smooth, flat-grained cedar, some surface preparation may be needed. The surface should be lightly scuffed with 50-60 grit sandpaper. This will greatly increase the performance of the finish and will not detract from a smooth look. Surface preparation is not necessary for textured cedar.

Weathered Cedar Siding

Weathered siding that has been exposed to the elements for longer than 2 weeks may have a degraded surface that is unsuitable for staining or painting. Prepare the surface by sanding, brushing, and washing before applying the finish.

Paint Finishes for Cedar Siding

Paint must be removed if the old surface is severely peeled, blistered, or if checking (small cracks) are present. Paint removal is also necessary if a penetrating stain or water-repellent finish is to be applied.

Changing from a painted surface to a wood stain can be quite difficult. Paint usually penetrates the surface by a slight amount, and this can prevent the absorption of stain. The end result will look blotchy and in some cases, the stain will not penetrate at all. If the surface is currently painted, it’s best to stay with paint instead of trying to switch to stain.

Finishes can be removed by sanding, wet sandblasting, pressurized water spray, electrically heated paint removers and chemicals. Although quick and easy, sandblasting and pressurized water spray are not recommended unless extreme care is taken to avoid damage to the wood’s surface. The high pressure can easily remove sections of the surface and ruin the siding. If the old paint is lead-based, it can be quite hazardous to remove and special procedures must be taken. In this case, it is best to hire a contractor that specializes in lead paint removal to do the job.

Wood stoves require regular maintenance in order to remain efficient and safe. Creosote (black flammable tar deposited from wood smoke) builds up inside your chimney and must be removed to prevent a chimney fire. Ashes have to be cleaned out of the firebox and disposed of properly.

Clean chimneys at least once a year. This tends to be a messy job, so it's best to call a professional chimney sweep. The creosote is removed with stiff brushes designed for the purpose. This will allow your wood stove to continue operating efficiently and also prevent a fire hazard.

Check your wood stove for cracks, warped parts, and leaking door seals. Make sure it is level and does not move around when the door is opened. Look for signs of corrosion on the stove pipe, especially around connecting joints. The door hinges must be solid and the latch should hold the door closed tight enough to prevent air leaks during operation. The air throttle should operate smoothly and there should be no obstructions.

Located inside your home is a circuit breaker box or panel that contains circuit breakers. Some homes have more than one panel. There may be a main panel plus one or more sub-panels in other locations.

There will usually be a large main breaker at the top of the panel with a high rating. The breakers for your branch circuits are physically smaller and have a lower amp rating. Be advised that shutting off the main breaker will also shutdown the branch circuits, but there is still high voltage in the breaker panel. The main wire leads into the panel are still active, and shutting off the main breaker will not stop current flow to these main leads.

A circuit breaker provides protection for each of your circuits by stopping the flow of current if an overload occurs. When the load on a circuit becomes too great, the breaker on that circuit trips and ceases the flow of current.

The basic circuit breaker consists of a simple switch, connected to either a bimetallic strip or an electromagnet. In the electromagnetic design, high current loads will energize the magnet and cause the breaker to trip. A bimetallic strip design works on the same principle, except that a high current load will cause the strip to heat and bend. This trips the breaker.

Another type of circuit breaker is the ground fault circuit interrupter, or GFCI. These are designed to protect people from electrical shock, as well as prevent damage to the wiring. Operation is complex, but basically, a GFCI constantly monitors current flow in the neutral and hot wires of a circuit. Normally, current flow in both sides will be equal. If the hot wire connects to ground - somebody accidentally touches the hot wire, for example - the current level surges in the hot wire, but not in the neutral wire. The GFCI breaks the circuit as soon as this happens. Since it doesn’t have to wait for current to climb to unsafe levels, the GFCI reacts much more quickly than a conventional breaker.

If your grout is still stained, the next thing to try would be commercial tile and grout cleaners. These are available where home cleaning products are sold. Start with a mild cleaner instead of jumping right to a harsh one. To get the best result from a commercial cleaner, spray it on and let it sit for a few minutes before scrubbing. Follow the directions on the label to clean effectively and prevent discoloration.

Tips for Grout Cleaning

• Clean the grout first with water and allow to dry. This will remove any loose surface debris and small stains that have not set.

• Never use bleach on colored grout because the color will be damaged.

• Use a stiff nylon brush for scrubbing. Avoid using metal bristles, as they will damage the grout.

• Make sure the room you're working in is well ventilated and protect your hands and eyes.

• Test your grout cleaner on a small, inconspicuous area first to make sure it won't damage the grout.

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The initial application of paint or wood stain is absorbed into the substrate. Since stains contain low amounts of binder, the pigment remains near the surface, while the binder penetrates to a deeper level. On the other hand, paint has a high amount of binder, so the pigment forms a layer on the surface.

Wood stains range from very low viscosity to extremely thick. The thicker stains are designed primarily for exterior use. They penetrate better than paint, but usually do not hide surface defects as well. Exterior stains tend to be more flexible than paint and last longer. If you decide to use stain, be aware that most cannot be painted over. So once a surface has been stained, that’s most likely how it will have to stay for life.

Applying wood stain is not usually too difficult. Most are brushed or rubbed onto the wood. But surface conditions can complicate things. Highly porous and dry woods will typically absorb the stain quickly - so fast, that several coats may be needed to reach the desired color depth. The ends of cut wood will absorb very fast and can cause color differences between top and sides.

Fast-drying stains can be difficult to apply in hot weather or direct sunlight. Slow-dry varieties will take a very long time to dry in cold and/or damp conditions. Be sure to check the labels and match drying time and temperatures.

The best long term solution to keeping grout clean is to seal it. This will help prevent spills from being absorbed into the grout, and cleanup is much easier.

You can purchase grout sealer online or at your local home center. There are quite a few types available, so be sure to read the labels before purchase. Silicone based sealer is applied to the grout only. It provides a long life and is fairly easy to clean. There are also finisher/sealer types that are applied to the entire floor. There are different types that will enhance and highlight both the tiles and the grout, or you can get a clear finish.

To get the best results, you should use a bleach solution (1 cup bleach to a gallon of water), and an old toothbrush. Be sure to wear rubber gloves and protect your eyes. This is a fairly strong bleach solution and you don't want to splash it in your eyes or be in contact with it for long periods.

Make sure you clean the entire floor before you begin. Once you’ve thoroughly cleaned the grout with the bleach solution, you’ll need to either mop or use a cloth and go over it with clean water before applying sealer. The grout should be completely dry before you seal it.

Inductive load appliances and tools such as refrigerators, washers, and power tools require additional wattage for starting. The initial load only lasts for a few seconds, but is very important when calculating your total wattage. For example - Running a 100 watt light bulb, a 1,200 watt refrigerator with a start-up wattage of 3,000 watts, and a 400 watt TV, would require 3,500 watts.

Electric Generator Safety Tips

Preparing the Surface

Surface preparation is crucial for a professional looking tile job. High and low spots must be leveled or you will have difficulty aligning the tiles. Low areas can cause tiles to crack. Remove any contamination so the adhesive will adhere to back of tiles.

Snap chalk lines with a 90 degree intersection, preferably in the center of the room. Be patient. The more time you invest in laying out your area the better your project will go. Solve your layout questions before the adhesive is even mixed.

For best results, all tiling materials and adhesives should be at 50 to 70 degrees for 24 hours before and 48 hours after installation. Thoroughly mix the mortar with clean water to a toothpaste like consistency. It is best to only mix what can be used in 30 minutes. Stir mixture occasionally to maintain consistency. In the event the mix becomes stiff in the pail, discard and make a fresh batch.

First apply the mortar using the flat side of a trowel to promote substrate contact. Then, using a notch trowel at a 45 degree angle, spread the Mortar uniformly in a ridged pattern. Continue applying mortar in a straight pattern. Do not swirl the trowel, as this creates uneven heights in the mortar. Spread only an area that can be tiled in 10 to 15 minutes. Press tile into Mortar with a slight twisting motion. To prevent any voids or air pockets under the tile, use a small block of wood or rubber mallet and carefully tap the top of each tile to insure complete contact with mortar. Be very gentle here. You don’t want to crack or otherwise weaken the tile. Stay off the tile for 48 hours.

After the mortar has dried 48 hours, you are ready to grout. There are a variety of grout colors available to enhance the look of your tile floor. When working with grout it is mandatory to keep conditions as consistent as possible throughout the job - moisture, temperature, mixing and application. Mix the grout powder as per instructions. It is better to mix no more than can be used within 20 minutes. Mix each batch until all the pigments are dispersed and wet. The mixing time for each batch should be the same. Use a grout float to work the grout into the tile joints. Skim off the excess grout with the edge of the float and wipe the tile immediately with a damp sponge. It is better to grout small areas at a time so no grout will dry on the face of the tile. Remove all of the grout with the exception of a fine film. This film can be buffed off after setting using a clean, dry cloth.

Lumber intended for general construction is subdivided into stress graded, non-stress graded, and appearance categories. Stress graded and non-stress graded lumber are required to have consistent structural integrity. With appearance lumber, visual quality of the piece is most important and structural integrity is a secondary requirement.

The term "yard lumber" is often applied to the non-stress graded and appearance lumber that is sold by retail lumberyards. With such lumber, grading is done on the better side of a piece after drying and surfacing, and grades are designated by specifying the allowable size and number of defects (e.g., knotholes). This contrasts with hardwoods where most grades are determined from the poorer side of each piece on the basis of a specified number of clear cuttings. Another distinction is that hardwoods are typically graded prior to drying and surfacing.

Non-Stress Graded Lumber

With non-stress graded lumber, pieces are graded primarily for serviceability but appearance is also considered, especially in the higher grades. Imperfections such as knots and knotholes are allowed to become larger and more frequent as the grade drops. The primary product is boards that are less than 2 inches in nominal thickness and 2 inches or more in nominal width. Common nominal widths are 2, 3, 4, 6, 8, 10, and 12 inches. Lengths are usually from 6 to 18 feet in increments of 2 feet. Three to five different Common grades may be applied to boards in this group depending upon the species and the lumber manufacturing association involved. In descending order of quality, the grades are:

No. 1 (Construction) - Moderate-sized tight knots. Paints well. Used for siding, cornice, shelving, paneling, some furniture.

No. 2 (Standard) - Knots larger and more numerous. Paints fair. Similar uses as No. 1.

No. 3 (Utility) - Splits and knotholes present. Does not take paint well. Used for crates, sheathing, sub-flooring, small furniture parts.

No. 4 (Economy) - Numerous splits and knotholes. Large waste areas. Does not take paint well. Used for sheathing, sub-flooring, concrete form work.

No. 5 (Economy) - Larger waste areas and coarser defects. Cannot be painted. Applications are similar to No. 5.

Stress Graded Lumber

This category includes most softwood lumber that is nominally 2 to 4 inches thick, referred to as "dimension" lumber. Examples include posts, beams, decking, studs, rafters, joists, timbers, and other structural lumber where working stresses will exist. Important qualities for stress-graded wood are strength, stiffness, and uniformity of size. Stress ratings may be determined either visually or mechanically to derive working values for properties such as bending stress and elasticity. A single set of grade names and descriptions are used throughout the United States although the allowable properties vary with wood species.

Appearance Lumber (Finish, Selects)

Appearance lumber is often non-stress graded but a separate category exists due to the greater importance placed on appearance. This group includes most softwood lumber that has been custom milled to a pattern or otherwise surfaced on all four sides (S4S). Examples are trim, siding, shingles, flooring, casing, base, stepping, and paneling. The highest grade of appearance lumber is Finish, which is subdivided into grades composed of letters or combinations of letters (B & BTR, C, D) or names such as Superior or Prime, depending on the grading agency. The next level down is Selects which has grade designations composed of numbers, letters, and names of ombinations of them (B & BTR, C Select, D Select).

To further complicate matters, some differences in grade designations exist for different wood species and products. Cedar and redwood, for example, have different grade designations than other softwoods due to the marked difference in color between heartwood and sapwood in these two woods. Typical redwood board grades are Clear All Heart, Clear, and Select. Other woods, such as western white or Idaho white pine (IWP) are graded as Supreme-IWP, Choice-IWP, and Quality-IWP. Some appearance lumber may also carry annotations such as FG (flat grain), VG (vertical grain), or MG (mixed grain).

Most concrete projects are measured by the foot for length and width, and inches for thickness. So how do you determine the cubic yards of concrete to order?

Let’s say you are pouring a slab that measures 20 feet wide, 20 feet long, and 4 inches thick. Start by calculating the square feet of surface area. The formula is:

20′ x 20′ = 400 Square Feet of surface area.

So far, so good. But now we have to get those inches in there somewhere. How to do it? Well, convert the inches to a fraction of a foot. Since 1 foot = 12 inches, divide the thickness (in this case 4 inches) by 12. Here’s the answer:

4″ / 12″ = 0.33333333, or simply .333.

So now we have everything needed to complete the calculations.

Selecting the Tiles

Most ceiling tiles are made of fiberboard. Standard tiles measure 12" by 12", although tiles are also made in 12" by 24" and other sizes. Acoustical tiles are made from the same type of fiber with an additional manufacturing process to help absorb sound in a room. A well designed acoustical tile absorbs up to 70 percent of excess noise.

Ask the supplier to help estimate the materials you need for installation. Most manufacturers provide charts to determine the number of tiles, the amount of furring, and the gallons of adhesive needed (if adhesive is used) based on the room size. Tiles are typically packed as follows: 12" by 12" ceiling tiles in cartons of 40, 12" by 24" are packed 20 to a carton.

Ceiling Tile Installation Methods

The most common methods of ceiling tile application are adhesives, stapled or nailed to wood furring strips, or a metal grid suspended from the overhead floor joists. For ceilings made of plaster, sheetrock, or other materials that provides a smooth, continuous backing, use adhesives to apply the ceiling tiles. If the ceiling has cracked plaster or other defects, apply furring strips and nail or staple the tiles to the furring strips.

Basic Rules

• All cut tiles should be used for the edges of the room where the ceiling meets the walls.

• Cut tiles at opposite ends of the room should be the same size.

• If at all possible, cut tiles should not be less than half a tile wide.

Determine the Size of Border Tiles

Measure the distance from wall to wall on the longer side of the room. If the length measures exact feet, you will not need to cut border tiles for that direction. If the distance does not come out in exact feet, add 12 to the number of inches remaining and divide by two. This gives you the width of your border tiles. For example, if the room is 10′ 6" long, add 12 to 6 (18) and divide 18 by 2. The result of 9" is the width of the border tiles for each end of the run. Do the same thing for the shorter side of the room. Confused? Here is the result of the calculations:

• 10′ 6" = 126 total inches of the run (10′ x 12" to the foot = 120") + 6" = 126"

• 6" + 12" = 18" (to make sure each end tile is at least 1/2 tile wide)

• 18" / 2 = 9"

• 9" on start of run + 9" on end of run = 18", so 126" (total length of the run) - 18" = 108"

• 108" / 12" (size of standard ceiling tile) = 9 tiles in middle of the run

• 9 tiles x 12" = 108" + 9" start of run + 9" end of run = 126"

• 126" / 12" = 10′ 6"

Installing Tiles with Adhesive

Use adhesive for applying tiles only if the ceiling is flat and even, with no high or low spots. A wavy surface will be magnified by the application of ceiling tiles. If you can’t get the ceiling in acceptable condition, use the furring strip method.

Surface preparation is important when using adhesives. Paint should be checked carefully to be sure it has a good bond and is compatible with the adhesive to be used. You don’t want to spend a lot of time installing tiles only to have them start falling down due to an adverse reaction between paint and adhesive.

Use the above formula to calculate width of borders on each end of the runs. Snap a chalk line along each side of the room that equals the width of the border tile from the wall. Use these lines to align the first row of border tiles along both the short and long sides of the room.

Cut your first border tile to size. This tile fits into the corner, so you must take into consideration the dimensions of border tiles on both the short and long sides of the room. For example, if your border tiles on the long side of the room are to be 10" and on the short side of the room only 9", the corner tile should be cut to measure 10" by 9". This allows all other border tiles in the room to line up properly with your full sized tiles.

Cut border tiles on a flat surface with the finished side up. Use a very sharp knife or utility knife and a clean straightedge. Watch your hands and fingers! Don’t cut directly towards your body because you can injure yourself if the knife slips.

Place the adhesive in each corner of the tile about an inch from the edge and in the middle of the tile. Place the border tile in position in the corner and make sure the wide stapling edge lines up with the chalk marks on both sides. The flange must be exposed so the tongue of the next tile can slide into the tile you’ve just placed.

It may be necessary to use a staple in each flange to hold the tile in position while the adhesive dries. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations. Place several border tiles in position along each edge, then fill in the ceiling with full-sized tiles. Once you’ve installed all the full-sized tiles, you must measure and fit each border tile carefully on the opposite end of the run. Install a border molding to complete the run.

Installing Tiles Using Furring Strips

For a ceiling with exposed joists or surface defects too difficult to correct, nail furring strips to the ceiling before applying the tiles. These can be purchased from building supply centers and/or the same place where you buy your ceiling tiles. If the ceiling has joists hidden by an existing ceiling, these joists must be located and marked before the furring strips are applied. You can locate joists by driving a nail into the ceiling or by using a stud finder.

Joists are usually installed on 16" or 24" centers. After you locate the first one, measure across 16" and try again. If you miss at 16", try 24". Locate and mark all joists with a chalk line so you can attach the furring strips. Nail the strips across the joists at right angles to the joists.

Attach the first furring strip to the ceiling immediately against the wall that runs at right angles to the ceiling joists. Position the second furring strip so that the distance between the center

Don't count on anybody to do their job right. Just because an architect has a nice office and a good reputation doesn't mean the drawings will be done properly. The contractor that comes highly recommended might end up ripping you off with shoddy work. You absolutely must stay on top of the entire home building project to prevent losing money or getting a house that you hate. It's amazing how many contractors can't even read a simple set of blueprints. And don't let them talk you into changing something unless you really want the change. In some cases, the contractor is simply trying to swap cheaper materials to increase the profit margin.

Get a firm estimate, put everything in a contract, and hold everybody to it. Don't allow excessive monetary draws. While it's customary to have an initial draw, make sure it's for actual building expenses and not some kind of "fee" to get work started. Every dime should go towards actually building the house. While material costs vary, and there is usually a clause in the contract that allows for this, don't fall for the "I'm not making any money on this project" scam three quarters of the way through. Unless you have made changes to the original plan that increase the cost, or supplies go up more than anticipated, don't pay any more than stated in the contract. Pay a dollar for a dollar, nothing more, nothing less. If you have been keeping the draws under control you can fire the contractor if necessary and find someone else. Remember that it's your house, your money, and you are the boss.

Make sure the last draw is large enough to be painful for the contractor if withheld. And don't pay it out until every last detail of the project has been completed to your total satisfaction. If you pay the last draw before your home is finished, you will probably never see the contractor again. He will move on to the next project and ignore your phone calls.

Plan everything about your home building project in excruciating detail up front. Leave nothing out. Go over the plans many times before even starting your project. Have a trusted friend help with this. Two sets of eyes always see better. Contractors love a home builder who isn't sure what he wants, and decides to fill in the details as the house is being built. Why? Because once the contractor has the job, he can charge you anything for changes that weren't in the contract. If you decide to make a change after work commences, go over it with the contractor and get a firm price quote. Then put it in writing before work on the change begins.

Your roof must be inspected periodically to ensure minor problems are corrected before real damage sets in. If the pitch of your roof is low, and you are comfortable (and confident) walking around on it, you can perform your own inspection and make small repairs yourself. Otherwise, hire someone to do this for you. Be careful - a fall, even from a single story house, can be fatal.

Here are some reasons why roofs fail:

Inadequate Maintenance - Ignoring small problems is the single greatest reason for premature failure of roofing systems. Catching small damage early and making repairs is vital to longevity. Waiting until water is dripping inside the house is a great way to unnecessarily spend a lot of money. By the time you notice a leak, the damage has most likely spread well beyond the original problem area.

Weathering - All roofing materials deteriorate from exposure to weather. As stated earlier, the elements take a toll on your roof. Wind is the greatest enemy. Roofs are not generally designed to withstand hurricanes and tornados. But roofs may also be damaged by winds that gust up to 75 miles per hour. The air current can lift shingles up and break off the outer tab. This exposes the the top of the underlying shingle, and makes the roof thinner at that point.

Flashing Problems - Flashing provides a watertight junction between roofing materials and other parts of the structure, or between roof sections. They are the most vulnerable part of any roof. Proper maintenance is critical. A lot of early roof problems are really due to a failure of the flashing system. Many flashing problems can be eliminated by examination and good quality repair procedures.

Improper Slope - This one amazes me. A new home is built in an area that experiences heavy snowfall, and a low-pitch roof is installed. The snow piles up, partially melts, and then freezes again at night. Now there’s a layer of heavy ice on the roof. Lather, rinse, repeat. The load becomes too heavy and the roof support structure sags or collapses entirely. While some of the responsibility for this mess can be traced to the homeowner for insisting on a certain design, the builder is supposed to know better.

As the manager, your biggest responsibility is hiring the subcontractors who will do the work. Do you know someone that recently had work performed on their house? Who did they use? Was it done on time and within budget? Would they use them again.

Drive around neighborhoods you like and find out who's building the houses. If you have dealt with subcontractors in the past (and you trust their opinion), get recommendations from them. If your carpenter recommends an electrician he works with frequently, that's a solid lead.

Once you get names, you want to learn all you can. Get a list of references and talk to them. Examine past work in person. Arrange to meet them on a current job site. When you find subcontractors you like, start writing down the work quotes. And remember that the low bidder doesn't necessarily do the best work.

Do you want subcontractors to buy the supplies or do you want to do it yourself? Materials are going to cost a pro less money because they have a relationship with suppliers and can get discounts that will not be available to you. They will also not be able to blame you if a supplier delivers poor quality items such as warped limber. Remember that subcontractors will most likely want money up-front if they are going to buy the materials themselves.

As for financing, you need to choose between getting one loan for construction and another for your mortgage, or one loan that would cover both phases. There are advantages and disadvantages to each type. Construction loans are by nature more elastic. Your chances of staying on-budget are not very good.

Level Tub or Shower Pan - If the tub is level to within 1/8″, measure and mark your horizontal line from the high point of the tub. The 1/8″ difference (if there is a difference) can be hidden with grout. Measure up from the lip of the tub, the width of a tile plus 1/8″. Make a line using a level and a straight edge, along the back wall and the two end walls.

Out of Level Tub or Shower Pan - If the tub is not level to 1/8″, mark your horizontal line from the low point. Determine a level line just like for a level tub and run a batten along the bottom of the line. It is usually best to nail a straight wooden batten so that the top of the batten is set to the horizontal line. This provides a level surface for the tile. After all the tile is laid, remove the batten and install the bottom row. You will have to cut the bottom row of tiles to fit along the uneven top edge of the tub or pan.

Vertical Working Lines

Setup the tiles so each edge (border) tile is the same width on each end, and more than half a tile wide. To do this, first locate the mid-point on the back wall and mark it on the horizontal line. Then place a row of loose tiles along the back of the tub, making sure that a joint matches up with the center mark. The distance left at each end gives you the dimension of your border tiles. If the end tiles turn out to be larger than half a tile, make the vertical center line all the way up the wall using a level and straight edge.

If the end tiles are less than half the width of a tile, move the center line exactly one half the width of a tile to the left or right. By making this adjustment you’ll avoid having very narrow tiles on the ends.

The vertical for the side walls are usually done after the back wall has been tiled. Just position the vertical working lines to minimize or eliminate the number of tiles to be cut and locate any cut tiles in the corner.

Determine where you are going to put the soap dish or other accessories, and mark the locations. These will be installed last. If your soap dish fits into the wall, cut the hole before you spread adhesive, and position it to minimize or even eliminate the need to cut any tiles that will go around it.

Apply Adhesive

Make sure the adhesive is waterproof. Don’t make the mistake of using non-waterproof adhesive or your tiles will loosen and fall off after repeated exposure to moisture. Before you apply the adhesive, carefully read the manufacturer’s instructions for drying time so you don’t spread any more than you can work with before it sets.